We left the Cotswolds and headed towards Salisbury, reluctantly I have to say, as we both love that part of the world. We are very fortunate to know someone who lives there and who kindly shares their home with us.
We didn't plan any sight seeing or castle/home visits, we just cruised through lovely villages and towns, including Cheltenham. As it was nearing "pub-lunch-o'clock ", we just had to follow a sign to an area called "The Wallops"! We dined at a pub called The Five Bells in Nether Wallop. This village is near Over Wallop and Middle Wallop, which run in a line beside the Wallop Brook. Of course many jokes followed........and many bruises!
Our accommodation was just lovely, in a village near Salisbury called Wilton, at a hotel called The Pembroke Arms, which sits beside a babbling brook with willow trees and meadow flowers. We decided at the last minute, once we had checked in, to visit Stonehenge, as it was late in the day and we thought we may miss the crowds. This is one of the most famous sites in the world and it is hard to believe that carbon dating has revealed it to have been built, between 3000BC and 2000BC. We both thought it was smaller in size than we had imagined, and no it's not because some stones have fallen! Again, the audio guide filled in the incredible story. Just as we left two bus loads of Japanese arrived......good timing.
The next day I had planned a full day of exploring, so a full English breakfast (sans black pudding) and we hit the road. We have assumed roles on our road trips......the trip advisor and her driver!
Now Wiltshire is well known for the white chalk horses, so we went to the Westbury White horse. Cut into the hillside in 1778, this horse replaced a slightly older horse. Seen for miles because of its position high on the hill, we were amazed that we could actually walk to it and get a very close look. So much bigger standing beside it, than seeing it from 2 km's away.
A visit to Bowood House was a compromise, as many of the homes we had listed to visit were closed. This happens a lot as many are still in use by the family. Bowood is a grade 1 listed Georgian house, sitting on 2000 acres and is the home of the Marquis of Landsdowne. Not much of the home to view, which was disappointing, but the gardens and lakes were just beautiful. Around the corner was the Landsdowne Arms, a cute stone inn. Obviously a fond watering hole of the gentry neighbour!
Not far away was a town with an unusual name and one that is central to the canal system in Wiltshire. Devizes is located at the confluence of the Avon and Kennet canals. The name, we thought was French, but actually evolved from a Latin word "divisas" or boundary. There are 29 locks here with 16 of them in a straight line, rising 72m at Caen Hill and originally built to connect Bristol to London. It was a lovely sunny Sunday, so full of activity with boating people.
On our return to Salisbury, we stopped at Old Sarum. Now this was intriguing. Situated 2 miles north and high on a hill are the remains of the original Salisbury containing evidence of human habitation as early as 3000BC. It has now been reduced to the foundations, as much pilfering of stones for other sites has taken place. It commands an amazing view for miles.
The Greyhound pub for dinner, or as we called it, 50 shades of Greyhound!
This brought our Wiltshire trip to a close as we drove south to get the ferry to the Isle of Wight. Along the way we stopped at Highcliffe Castle in Christchurch. Another Grade 1 listed building, overlooking the sea. Built by Lord Stuart de Rothesay in the 1830's from materials salvaged from French medieval buildings including gargoyles and stained glass windows, which were shipped to England. The Aston Martin Car Club had a meet there, which had every male drooling over shiny cars! Didn't quite get it myself!
The ferry took us from Lymington to Yarmouth. We then headed south to our small hotel on the SE of the island in a village called Shanklin. (Ha Ha Sasha &Tim) Our room overlooked the sea.......there is something so soothing about the sound of the sea, and our philosophy is, if you are staying near the sea, then you have to see the sea! After a recommendation from the owner about where to eat, we walked along the seafront to a pub tucked right under the cliffs, for dinner. This thatched roofed pub, called The Fishermans Cottage, was what the locals call a "destination pub", that is not a tourist pub. Standing up inside, had our heads just about touching the beams. Seating for about 20! Great meal.
The Isle of Wight is the largest island of England, but at 348 sq km, not huge. It's the smallest county in England, but only when the tide's in! Which of you know the smallest county when the tide's out? We divided our touring into two parts. First day we drove along the southern coastal road to a landmark called The Needles, a row of 3 distinctive stacks of chalk that rise out of the sea at the western extremity of the island. We took a boat ride for a closer look, as it was a calm day on the water, but to get on board were 188 steps down to the pebbly beach.......and of course 188 back again. Challenging but worth it!
On our way back to base, we stopped off at Carisbrooke Castle. This half crumbled castle dates back to the 6C. Charles 1 was imprisoned here prior to his trial and execution in 1649.
It's most recent resident was Princess Beatrice, daughter of Queen Victoria, as Governor of the Isle of Wight. A very large castle, with a prime position on a hill, with views to the mainland.
Part two of our island tour was to the east and north of the island, with much criss-crossing of the centre. The catalyst for our visit to the IOW, was Osborne House in East Cowes on the north of the island. It was built in 1845 for Queen Victoria and Prince Albert (who designed the home), as a retreat from royal life. Queen Victoria died there in 1901, and following her death was deemed to be surplus to royal requirements and presented to the nation. This was despite QV giving strict instructions for it to remain in the family. In 1876 as a tribute to QV, Government House in Victoria (Australia) was constructed as a copy of Osborne House.
Our time on the Isle of Wight was relaxing, but we had to head back to London. The ferry we caught, took us from Fishbourne to Portsmouth.
We have a National Trust App for the phone, so checked to see what we could visit on our way back to base. It came up with Petworth House, in West Sussex, a late 17C mansion, which houses an important collection of paintings and sculptures by Turner and Van Dyck and ceiling paintings by Laguerre. It stands on 700 acres and is now in the hands of the Wyndham family- currently Lord Egremont - who live in the south wing. It was a misty and drizzly day, so pics are not great outside.
My sister and her husband were back in London for a few days, after being in Instanbul, so we met them at Kensington Palace, as this was somewhere we all had not visited. This has just had a £12m renovation with the new entrance, facing Kensington Gardens, through a portico erected for the Queen's Diamond Jubilee. As well as the beautiful rooms, there was an interesting exhibition called "Victoria Revealed", which looks at the life and reign of Victoria through her own words, including her relationship with Albert and her family. The exhibits, over 300, include her wedding dress and jewellery, and dolls she made and dressed. Queen Victoria was born at Kensington Palace in 1819, and lived there until she became Queen (at 18 y o ), when she moved to Buckingham Palace ("just up t' road").
We ticked off our list another show, "War Horse". We missed seeing it in Melbourne, and were sad we had to pass on our tickets. Absolutely wonderful! A poignant story. The puppetry was brilliant, a credit to the performers.
Sign of the times.....Indian restaurant in thatched cottage, near a town called Sandy Balls in Hampshire.
Until next blog,
Love Annie X.
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