Chapter 30

Training The Continent - Part One -Luxembourg and Berlin 

So off we went again on the Eurostar, but this time to Brussels, an easy 2 hour trip where we changed trains and headed to Luxembourg - about another three hours - our first destination.  The country is too small, (only 82km x 57km), for its full name to fit on most European maps, but pint sized Luxembourg is somewhere we have both wanted to visit.  There are German and French influences, but proud Luxembourgish is at the forefront.
It was dark when we arrived but WOW what a magical sight greeted us!  "Winterlights", a festival of lights and animation, that starts at the end of November every year, plunges the heart of the city into a magical and romantic place with lights, markets, carousels, a big wheel and gastronomic delights.
I felt quite overwhelmed.......so special. 

Our hotel, in the old part of town at Place D'Armes, was central to wander and explore.  As it was late, we decided to try some "local" food for dinner, (whatever that was), so the hotel recommended an eatery called Restaurant Kniddelkinnek, where we ate a dumpling dish and a potato dish - can't recall how it was spelt, let alone how to pronounce it, but they were both delicious.  Washed down with a local wine as well.

As we were only here for one full day, we jumped on the Ho-Ho bus to get an overview of the town.  Given that it was founded about 900, there were interesting churches, fortifications, bridges, and buildings, but also with a mix of very modern additions, as it is one of the wealthiest countries in the world. 

 

Next stop Berlin, a much longer train ride at just under 8 hours, but what great trains.  This trip necessitated a change of trains in Cologne, with only a 6 minute transfer time.  Thanks to the reliability of the German train system, this was easily done.  On average the train was travelling at around 250km/ph, so the on-board screen showed us.

Again it was dark when we arrived, so we dumped the suitcases and went in search of a schnitzel!  Success....and delicious.
The weather was chilly, about one degree,  but clear with sunny breaks,  so we rugged up and jumped on the Ho-Ho, a two hour round city trip this time, to see the traces of Berlin's division at former crossing points and memorials as well as preserved historical sights. 

These are a few places that we visited..........

Checkpoint Charlie (or Checkpoint "C"), the most famous border crossing at the Berlin Wall that was guarded by the Americans.

The Berlin Wall an iconic marker of territories and boundaries - the border between East and West, Capitalism and Communism, freedom and confinement - a political division. There are still preserved sections around the city today, but we chose to visit the dedicated memorial in Bernauer Strasse.  Photos of all the people killed trying to escape was quite confronting.  Thank goodness the wall lost its power to terrify in 1989!

The Brandenberg Gate, an 18C triumphal arch and one of the most recognised landmarks in Europe was top of our list to visit.  Napoleon and Hitler are famous for marching under it, and then there is Kennedy's famous speech in front of it, where he told the world he was a jam doughnut......or "Ich bin ein Berliner".

The Jewish Museum, an interesting zinc-coated, zig-zag-designed building, rich in symbolism, lead us through the eventful history of Jews in Germany.  Quite confronting at times, but so well laid out.  Stairs leading to nowhere, starkness and a garden of exile outside.

Found this aerial shot of the museum...

The Reichstag Building, or the parliamentary building, built at the end of the 19C stands near the Brandenburg Gate and can be seen from many points in Berlin.  A huge glass dome, added after an arsonist fire destroyed most of the building in 1933, has a spiral walkway where you can walk to the top to look over Berlin and also down on "sitting members". Strict procedures to enter and exit. Really strict!

Not our photo either, but shows the glass dome which public can walk around...

The Memorial to the murdered Jews of Europe, or the Holocaust Memorial was opened on the 60th anniversary of the fall of the Nazi regime at the end of WW2.  Built on 19,000 sq m near the Brandenburg Gate and a short walk from the ruins of where Hitler's bunker is buried, it is made up of a "forest" of 2,711 grey stone slabs of varying heights, with no markings, names or dates - the artist wanting to create a feeling of groundlessness and disorientation.  Some slabs appeared to be crying......again very moving.

Berliner Dome, a Baroque Cathedral built in the late 1800's, is another building seen from many points in Berlin.  We climbed right up into the dome to look down on the richly decorated interior and alter.

And, of course, we enjoyed a couple of the 62 Christmas Markets which Berlin had this year.  Our favourite was the Gendarmenmarkt, where we ate twice and had a stein of beer each.  Pip has resumed his chestnut addiction - on his own.

 


We enjoyed learning about Berlin and its history.  Much to talk about together and read about.  We also enjoyed the delicious baked goods and beer. 
So off we ventured .....our next train ride took us about four hours to Prague. 

Part two in the next blog

Till then,
Love Annie
Xxx

Chapter 29

A London Sandwich.......3 weeks between trips.

Pip had a final two working weeks in Dublin to finish off his contract, do a hand over and then it was the two of us again.
Whilst he was there I did research and reading for our forthcoming trip, as the weather was a trifle damp and chilly!  How quickly it changed from drinks on the patio, to multiple layers, (we have purchased Thermal "unders" now, and no we won't be taking photos!), darkness at 4.45pm and temperatures hovering around zero at night!
Christmas is nuzzling its way into the shops and media.  One new book which hit the shelves for Christmas which I thought was amusing was, "Fifty Sheds of Grey"! This was the boys version of that erotic page-turner for girls. The quirky sequel was "Fifty Sheds Damper"! Someone here has a tongue-in-cheek sense of humour!

On our first weekend back from Oz, we headed into London to see another show, and this time we decided on "Let it Be" - a posh tribute to the Beatles, with over 40 greatest hits performed, from She Loves You to Hey Jude, with Sgt Peppers and Abbey Road in the middle.  It was at the Savoy theatre, (next to the Savoy Hotel), built in 1881 specifically for Gilbert and Sullivan productions by Mr D'Oyly Carte.  As you can imagine, charming and quaint inside. Interestingly, it was the first theatre in the world to be lit by incandescent electric lights...........still blazing today!

I ventured into London on my own to visit the National Portrait Gallery, while Pip was with the Leprechauns.  I do love this art gallery.  My favourite section is the modern portraits, with Judi Dench and Michael Parkinson the standouts. 
Walking through Trafalgar Square, I noticed a strange blue cock had made its home on a pillar!  Right behind Nelson!

Another place on my bucket list, which I have now ticked, was a visit to "The Old Bailey", one of the oldest and most famous courts in the world.  Actually called Central Criminal Court, it takes its nickname from the road on which it stands, and is built on the site of the former Newgate prison.  Trials of figures diverse as the Kray twins, Yorkshire Ripper, and Oscar Wilde have stood at the dock.  I sat in the public gallery of two cases - the murder of a 16 yr old boy, and the other, the death of an 11 month old boy, where the mother was on trial.  Both sad, but interesting.  The phone hacking trial was on with Rebeckah Brooks etc, but could not get into that court.  Security to enter the building was extensive, with no mobile phones allowed at all.

With a couple of days spare before we headed off to the continent, we popped up to see our friends near Stratford-Upon-Avon.  We love this part of England, and seeing the spectacular autumn displays in the woodlands and fields does give you a warm glow! 

View of River Avon from bedroom window

The English Midlands are blessed with a wealth of period homes and Packwood House, a 16C Tudor manor house in Lapworth, Warwickshire, is one we decided to visit while there.  We are ticking many off our list now.  The house has had many owners but it was the Ash family who purchased and lovingly restored this home, between the world wars, to create a 20C interpretation of Tudor living. The interiors are opulent and feature a fine collection of tapestries, stained glass and timber panelled walls.  Outside there are stunning perennial borders, sculpted Yew trees (over 100), woodlands and a lake. It has been described as, "A house to dream of, and a garden to dream in".  Just beautiful on the chilly, sunny autumnal day we visited.

Back to London by train to prepare for our jaunt onto the continent.  This started out as a quick trip to see our friends in Germany around my birthday for a couple of days, and has now grown into a three week exploration of places we have on our bucket list.
So........
Back to Ebbsfleet, again, to catch the Eurostar to Brussels this time!

Till the next blog
Love
Annie
Xxxx

Chapter 28

London-Paris-Singapore-Melbourne-London 

First stop London
We returned to London from Dublin, and were greeted with a chill in the air and the trees blushed with colour, but it felt like an old slipper. Comfortable and familiar. 
First evening meal........in a pub of course!  We ate at The New Inn in Hayes. Excellent!  We have now booked a lunch on Christmas Eve with about 10 family and friends!
We were only in London for a few days, so I had a last minute wander up Regent Street (there is always a shopping list when you have daughters), before we packed what we needed for our trip back to Australia.   Again back to Ebbsfleet International to catch the Eurostar, which is so easy.  Around two hours and you have slithered through the 50km Chunnel and popped up in France!
Next stop Paris.
We chose the Isle de Saint Louis, picture-book Paris, as our overnight stop not having stayed in this location before.  It is one of two islands in the Seine connected to the rest of Paris by bridges to both banks.  Quite a peaceful oasis of calm in this busy city with one-way, narrow cobbled streets and no Metro station.
Once we dumped our luggage, (reduced for our trip home to only 2 suitcases),  we wandered in the drizzling rain.........but heh, we were in Paris, it didn't matter! 

Near the Champs

Walked up the "Champs", and Rue St Honore, a bit more shopping, then headed back to the Isle for a pre-dinner drink in a bar.

Pre-dinner drink, and some saucisson

We tried a restaurant, again on the Isle, called Le Tastevin, which was just wonderful.  Entrecôte for Pip, and Cote de Veau for me, all washed down with a Sancerre.  Back in the 20 room "boutique" hotel, a converted 17C townhouse, we enjoyed the quaint surroundings with exposed beams and French lighting and artworks.  They say the ideal Parisian hotel is like a  macaron - small, colourful and bursting with individual flavour.  Well this had all of that.

View from Paris apartment

Next stop Singapore.
The 12 hour flight was flat, (as in not bumpy), and we arrived on time via our transit stop in KL.   

Sunrise at KL International Airport

Singapore is a special place for us, we just love it, but due to time constraints, could only spend one night this time.  The hotel we chose was called the Goodwood Park Hotel, not a high-rise modern glass tower, which we try and stay away from, but a heritage hotel  built in 1900, complete with turrets and decorated facade.  Set in 6 hectares of beautifully landscaped gardens and in a great location - a 5 minute walk to Orchard Rd.

Goodwood Park Hotel

Some last minute shopping for the girls, a haircut for me, a catch up with old work colleagues for Pip and then dinner at one of our favourite restaurants.  Everything so familiar.
Back to Changi, for the flat ride home!  No bumps this sector either.
Next stop Melbourne
We were greeted at the airport by two smiling faces - it was so nice to be home after one year. Where did that time go?

Welcoming committee

We then started our 12 days of socialising, medical and dental appointments and family time.
Laura arrived mid way through our journey- so nice to be all back together again.  We love these girls dearly, and didn't realise how much we missed them.  And we are lucky to have Tim now, a wonderful addition!
We caught up with nearly all of our friends, some even a couple of times.  A few were on holiday themselves, getting out of a cold Melbourne I expect!
We decided to have a few family photos taken while we were all together, as we don't have any recent ones. 

PALS

Our last few days were busy with financial planners, a check of our home and on the last day a family dinner at my sister Joh's home.

Home: still there!

We again packed the suitcases, but this time they were a lot lighter!  We decided to take back and leave in Melbourne  a few things which we no longer needed.  For example, six months of summer clothes and my Christmas tree from Singapore that I have dragged around since April!  Pip is still perplexed that I did this!
Thank you to everyone involved in allowing us somewhere to sleep, cars, and emails and phone calls, we caught up with everyone that wanted to see us. 
Next stop London
Arrived midday and were greeted with a mild day. Easy trip back to the 'burbs, using the underground, overground and a 10 minute walk to our cousin's home.  First task.........make a brew!
Daylight saving had kicked in here while we were away, so we were surprised to see darkness descending at 4.45pm.  The upside of that was, it was easy going to bed at 8pm. 
We are now making plans for the run up to the festive season. 

Till the next blog
Love Annie
Xxxx

Chapter 27

Dun Laoghaire-Dublin-London

Sadly, we packed up our six suitcases and moved out of the wonderful apartment we had lived in for 5 weeks in Dun Laoghaire.  Our host Marie, was absolutely delightful, and we both said that we certainly had hold of a four-leafed clover to secure it. 
We moved into a hotel in Dublin, about a five minute walk for Philip to get to and from work. This was the up side as it was nearly an hour one way to work from the apartment.

Philip's work building in the background.  Train station half way, from hotel room.

We have been in Ireland for 9 weeks, and have been very lucky with the weather.  Only a couple of inclement days, and nothing to stop us touring.  The best summer in 20 years we were told!  Another four-leafed clover?
On our last weekend in Ireland, we decided to head to the "sunny south east", to a place called Wexford.  This two hour journey by train was picturesque, as the track hugged the coast for most of the trip. 

Taken from train

We had arranged a pick up to tour the area before checking into our accommodation, so it was nice to see Eugene's smiling face as we got off the train.  As we learnt, he was a career fisherman who now drove taxis and he was a local, so imparted much information and funny stories.  One such story he told about his life on the sea, was the time he fell overboard while working one shift during rough weather. As he was hauled aboard, he was asked by his sympathetic crew not "if he was OK", but "are ya wet"!  We thought that was hilarious and typical of the many Irish stories we have heard.
Our first stop was Carracloe Beach and Ballinesker Beach.  Probably unfamiliar to you just as names, but if you have seen the movie Saving Private Ryan, then you would have seen the cliffs and beaches in the opening scenes depicting Omaha Beach and the D-Day landings.
This stretch of coastline is quite untouched and pristine, with hardly a soul around and very similar to Normandy.

Next on the list was Tintern Abbey, located on a small river that flows into Bannow Bay.  We were told that when the Earl of Pembroke set sail to Ireland (c1200) from Wales, his vessel was threatened with shipwreck.  Whilst swimming for his life, he vowed to found an abbey wherever he could safely land, so now Tintern de Voto, "Tintern of the vow" is located here. Now we have been to both "Tinterns" - Monmouthshire, Wales and Co Wexford, Ireland!

About 500 metres from the Abbey in a verdant vale with beautiful wooded scenery is the Colclough Walled Garden.  The 2.5 acre garden was built over 200 years ago, but it was abandoned to nature in 1959.  Extremely overgrown, volunteers are now restoring the ornamental and kitchen sections using information found on historical maps.  Today, with its  brook, bridges, thriving vegetable patch and fruit trees it is a credit to these people.

The verdant vale

The walled garden

Further along this peninsular, on a point leading into Waterford Harbour, is the Hook Lighthouse.  This 800 year old striped structure is one of the oldest operating in the world. On the opposite side of the estuary is a town called Crook.  This is where, we were told, the saying.." By hook or by Crook" came from.

Titanic wannabee

From Hook to Crook

 We visited the National Famine Memorial near Westport, but here in New Ross, our next stop, they have built a replica famine ship.  The "Dunbrody" was a three masted barque built in Quebec in 1845 for the local Graves family.  It was fitted with bunk beds, and between 1845 and 1851 she carried passengers, trying to escape the potato famine, to North America for sums of £3-£8 depending on class.  6 sq.ft was allowed for 4 passengers.  Unimaginable in today's terms.  Or is it, with the traffic of people on the waters around the world.

The barque, with its captain

The captain, with its bark

The town of New Ross is most notable for its association with the Kennedy family.  JFK visited here in 1963 just before his fateful trip to Dallas.  He was visiting the simple rural farm cottage that his great grandfather Patrick Kenedy (note the spelling) lived in prior to him leaving Ireland as a famine emigrant.  The visitor centre was recently opened by Caroline Kennedy in June this year, and is filled with memorabilia and photos and stories.  The descendants still live in the cottage.

Cottage to the left, barn to the right

After 6 hours touring, we were dropped off at Rathaspeck Manor for the night.  Built in the late 1600's by the Codd family, it passed down through many generations, and was even in the hands of the Moody family in the early 1900's!  (Not my family)  They sold it to the ancestors of the current family who have ditched the cows and farm animals and made an 18-hole golf course on the surrounding land.  Rathaspeck roughly translates to Fort of the Bishop, as it was home to some nuns for a while.  We slept in what was Father Alberts room.......what was he doing there you ask?
The rooms were magnificent and the Full Irish breakfast delicious.  We have found out that a Full Irish is a Full English without the baked beans!
We were offered free golf after breakfast, so we thought, why not. 
I haven't played for 20 years, so the challenge was huge.  I went around in 71, which Pip said was "one under par".  However, we only played 9 holes...... don't think Rory McIlroy will have to worry.  And Pip has since told me its not a "zig-zag" game, or that you get extra points to put the ball in the sand or ponds. That was my mistake!

Rathaspeck Manor

Ready...aim...

Thwack... why didn't the ball move?

Before boarding the train to return to Dublin, we had a quick lunch in The Wexford Centenary Stores pub.  Music drew us inside, and we were delighted to see 7 guys playing mandolins, fiddles, banjos, tin whistles, accordions  and a couple of Bodhrans.  The folk singing to accompany it was melodic.  Our feet were tapping, but not in a Riverdance way! Good Craic.

Well, we have now packed up the six suitcases yet again, and are off to London.  I must add here that we have had a wonderful time in Ireland, and we both think one of the highlights has been the culinary experiences.  The wealth of locally sourced ingredients from the sea and land is represented in the many cuisines we have tried.  And, of course, Guinness, well thats a whole food group on its own!

Now back to family and friends, which will be nice. 

Till the next blog
Love Annie
X

Chapter 26

Visitors and venturing.....

We were delighted that our dear friends Chis and Sal from Sydney, who are now ensconced in Wales, caught the ferry from Holyhead to join us in Dun Laoghaire to see where we live. We had a wonderful weekend.  Again centred around food, wine, fun and walking.  And the weather was fine.......bonus.  We ate in, ate out and went to the local Farmers Market, full of amazing produce.  I am sure we all secretly go on diets each time we leave each other. 

Walking the East Pier in Dun Laoghaire

We were looking forward to the free aviation spectacle above the Liffey River called FlightFest.  So we, along with about 100,000 other people, braved the cold blustery conditions to crane our necks to catch sight of more than 30 aircraft flying dramatically low over the city skyline.  Some of the aircraft that took part were a B17 Flying Fortress, Catalina Flying boat, Sabre Fighters, along with an Airbus 380, which flew about 800 ft above us. Three planes did not attempt to fly because of the conditions.  I pity the pilots who had to keep their wits about them checking who was flying above, below, and beside them and with a crowd underneath.  We left about half way through, returned home, and realised the aircraft were turning above our apartment to do their laps into the city!  Oh well!

Flying up the Liffey

Our next visitors, Valerie, Derek and Gill, arrived a couple of weeks later for four days.  Valerie and Derek generously opened their home to us when we were in the UK, so it was nice to repay some hospitality.  As it was their first visit to Ireland, we decided on the HoHo bus, which is always good value and a good way to get an overview of a city.
The Guiness Storehouse, located at St James' Gate in Dublin, was one stop we all jumped off at.  Arthur Guiness founded this brewery in 1759 and was clever enough to sign a 9,000 year lease for the site @ £45 per year!   He had 21 children, so there must be something in the black brew, and I don't mean tea!  The self-guided tour is laid out over 7 levels in what was the old fermentation plant, with the tour finishing on the top floor at the Gravity Bar, giving 360 degree views of Dublin.  A pint of the black liquid in your hand was a welcome conclusion.  And I must say, it tastes soooo much better here. It is brewed in 60 countries........... so it must be the water?

4m high bronze sculpture of a pint of Guinness

St Patrick's Cathedral, was another stop.  A wooden church stood on this site from the 5th century.  The current building, built in 1191 by the Normans, is the largest church in Ireland and one of two cathedrals in Dublin.  The most famous holder of the office of Dean was Jonathan Swift, satirist and author of Gulliver's Travels, who is buried there.

 

Picking up on local recommendation, we took the train 30 mins south around the coast to a village called Bray.  The weather was a mild 22 deg, so we walked along the seafront, then headed to Kilruddery House, the large country home of the Brabazon family (the Earls of Meath), since 1618.  It is still in use as an 800 acre farm run by the current 15th Earl and his family, who open the home for 3 months each year. The gardens are the oldest in Ireland, still surviving in their 17C state.  It has been used as film locations for My Left Foot and Angela's Ashes.
We enjoyed a lovely lunch in the tearooms which were situated in the old Octaganal Dairy. The freshly grown ingredients picked from the Walled Garden made it more delicious.

One event that we did not get to was the National Ploughing Championships, a field of dreams for some.  Now I don't know whether that was lack of interest, or that we would find it too amusing and launch into uncontrollable laughter.  It was a three-day event showcasing tractors and agricultural machinery, with a few sheep and cattle thrown in.  3 days is a lot of sods to be ploughed.  Oh, and a welly-throwing contest.  The temperatures soared to 23 deg for the occasion.

While the weather was still holding up, we took the train due west across Ireland to the town of Westport, in Co Mayo, about a three hour journey.  The town is nestled around the shores of Clew Bay which hosts 365 islands, and last year was named the "Best Place to Live in Ireland".  It was designed in 1780 in the Georgian style of architecture and features the river Carrowbeg with its quaint stone bridges. 

One of the draw cards to this area is Croagh Patrick, known locally as "the Reek", a mountain which offers a dramatic backdrop (at 764m ) and a place of pilgrimage.  St Patrick is supposedly to have spent 40 days and 40 nights in the 5th century, praying at the top, before driving out all the snakes from Ireland. We decided we had to give it a go, so we collected our walking sticks, and headed up.  We were told 2-3 hours up and 1.5 back should do it.  We walked about half way up, and then the knees gave out!  "He could have chosen a less difficult place for followers to visit", we overheard someone say.  One guy was carrying a bike, and there were others jogging? Extremely arduous as underfoot were pebbles, rocks, loose scree and mud, but we were rewarded with an amazing vista. Our 70 mins up included me falling up, and slipping down.

The taxi driver that we used to take us there left his business card to enable us to call him for the return trip.  Turns out he was also a funeral director.  We wondered whether he used the same vehicle for both businesses.  I guess it's all human trafficking.

Each side of the business card

Close by and at the base of the mountain was the National Famine Memorial.  A sculpture of a "Coffin Ship", as they were called, sits in a beautiful green field, with the bay as its backdrop.  These ships left the Irish shores with those wishing to escape the poverty and famine of the 1840's, but  many did not make it to the New Continent.  One million died in the famine and one million emigrated. 

The famous pirate Queen, Grace O'Malley, built one of her many castles in Westport in the 1500's.  The Browne family, her direct descendants are custodians of today's home, built in 1730, now on the site.  The remains of the original castle are still evident in the basement.....believed to be dungeons.  Full of artwork and treasures, we walked through the 30 rooms on show. 

Westport House

Long Room

Entrance Hall

Drawing Room - great floor

Till the next blog.

Love Annie
xx