Sunday 1 December 2013

Chapter 30

Training The Continent - Part One -Luxembourg and Berlin 

So off we went again on the Eurostar, but this time to Brussels, an easy 2 hour trip where we changed trains and headed to Luxembourg - about another three hours - our first destination.  The country is too small, (only 82km x 57km), for its full name to fit on most European maps, but pint sized Luxembourg is somewhere we have both wanted to visit.  There are German and French influences, but proud Luxembourgish is at the forefront.
It was dark when we arrived but WOW what a magical sight greeted us!  "Winterlights", a festival of lights and animation, that starts at the end of November every year, plunges the heart of the city into a magical and romantic place with lights, markets, carousels, a big wheel and gastronomic delights.
I felt quite overwhelmed.......so special. 



Our hotel, in the old part of town at Place D'Armes, was central to wander and explore.  As it was late, we decided to try some "local" food for dinner, (whatever that was), so the hotel recommended an eatery called Restaurant Kniddelkinnek, where we ate a dumpling dish and a potato dish - can't recall how it was spelt, let alone how to pronounce it, but they were both delicious.  Washed down with a local wine as well.

As we were only here for one full day, we jumped on the Ho-Ho bus to get an overview of the town.  Given that it was founded about 900, there were interesting churches, fortifications, bridges, and buildings, but also with a mix of very modern additions, as it is one of the wealthiest countries in the world. 

 

Next stop Berlin, a much longer train ride at just under 8 hours, but what great trains.  This trip necessitated a change of trains in Cologne, with only a 6 minute transfer time.  Thanks to the reliability of the German train system, this was easily done.  On average the train was travelling at around 250km/ph, so the on-board screen showed us.


Again it was dark when we arrived, so we dumped the suitcases and went in search of a schnitzel!  Success....and delicious.
The weather was chilly, about one degree,  but clear with sunny breaks,  so we rugged up and jumped on the Ho-Ho, a two hour round city trip this time, to see the traces of Berlin's division at former crossing points and memorials as well as preserved historical sights. 

These are a few places that we visited..........

Checkpoint Charlie (or Checkpoint "C"), the most famous border crossing at the Berlin Wall that was guarded by the Americans.


The Berlin Wall an iconic marker of territories and boundaries - the border between East and West, Capitalism and Communism, freedom and confinement - a political division. There are still preserved sections around the city today, but we chose to visit the dedicated memorial in Bernauer Strasse.  Photos of all the people killed trying to escape was quite confronting.  Thank goodness the wall lost its power to terrify in 1989!



The Brandenberg Gate, an 18C triumphal arch and one of the most recognised landmarks in Europe was top of our list to visit.  Napoleon and Hitler are famous for marching under it, and then there is Kennedy's famous speech in front of it, where he told the world he was a jam doughnut......or "Ich bin ein Berliner".


The Jewish Museum, an interesting zinc-coated, zig-zag-designed building, rich in symbolism, lead us through the eventful history of Jews in Germany.  Quite confronting at times, but so well laid out.  Stairs leading to nowhere, starkness and a garden of exile outside.

Found this aerial shot of the museum...

The Reichstag Building, or the parliamentary building, built at the end of the 19C stands near the Brandenburg Gate and can be seen from many points in Berlin.  A huge glass dome, added after an arsonist fire destroyed most of the building in 1933, has a spiral walkway where you can walk to the top to look over Berlin and also down on "sitting members". Strict procedures to enter and exit. Really strict!

Not our photo either, but shows the glass dome which public can walk around...

The Memorial to the murdered Jews of Europe, or the Holocaust Memorial was opened on the 60th anniversary of the fall of the Nazi regime at the end of WW2.  Built on 19,000 sq m near the Brandenburg Gate and a short walk from the ruins of where Hitler's bunker is buried, it is made up of a "forest" of 2,711 grey stone slabs of varying heights, with no markings, names or dates - the artist wanting to create a feeling of groundlessness and disorientation.  Some slabs appeared to be crying......again very moving.




Berliner Dome, a Baroque Cathedral built in the late 1800's, is another building seen from many points in Berlin.  We climbed right up into the dome to look down on the richly decorated interior and alter.



And, of course, we enjoyed a couple of the 62 Christmas Markets which Berlin had this year.  Our favourite was the Gendarmenmarkt, where we ate twice and had a stein of beer each.  Pip has resumed his chestnut addiction - on his own.

 


We enjoyed learning about Berlin and its history.  Much to talk about together and read about.  We also enjoyed the delicious baked goods and beer. 
So off we ventured .....our next train ride took us about four hours to Prague. 

Part two in the next blog

Till then,
Love Annie
Xxx

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