Chapter 31

Training the Continent..........Part Two - Prague, Nuremberg and Wurzburg.

This time we arrived in daylight, so really nice to cross town to the hotel and catch a glimpse of Prague before it got dark, (4.30pm now)!
The boutique hotel we chose for our visit to Prague was just beautiful.  Built at the end of the 19C, and originally an apartment building, it had a wonderful view over the river and the old part of town. 

View from hotel room

We had hours of research under our belt, so we could make good use of our time in this "City of a Hundred Towers" or "a Thousand Spires" depending on what you have read!  Prague is so beautiful - every church or historical building seems to have spires on them and the pastel colours add to the romance.  We started our sightseeing at the top of the hill where the old fort and castle command a dominant position over the entire city, and worked our way down the hill through churches, basilicas and a quaint cobbled street named Golden Lane - an ancient street with 11 homes built in the 16C for the castle guards, which was taken over by goldsmiths - hence the name. 

Guards at Prague Castle

Basilica at the Castle

Rear of Basilica

 While we were in Prague I celebrated my birthday.  We wanted to eat a typical Czech meal and found a restaurant called Na Zlate Krizovatce. This is what we ate - and I have checked the spelling! 
I had "Vepřová pečeně na rozmarýnu s dušenou bílým zelím a knedlíkem" and Pip had "Kančí guláš s domácími bramboráčky plackami".  Most of you would immediately recognise this as roast pork for me and goulash for Pip!  Lovely white wine from Moravia.  Very difficult language Czech, and we didn't even attempt to speak it, except for our version of Thank you ("děkuji" - "Jay Kwee").

We took the funicular to the top of Petrin Hill, on a day that was bright and sunny and a mild 6 deg.  At the top, is a one quarter scale imitation of the Eiffel Tower.  We took the lift to the top, not the 299 stairs.....price difference, £1!   We then had a great panoramic view over Prague.  

Down the hill afterwards, to have a ride on the #22 tram around the city, a must we were told.  We then walked to the Old Town Square and watched the 600 year old Astronomical clock or Orloj, an iconic symbol of the city, strike on the hour. It consists of three parts, the walk of the apostle - top, the Sphere or Clock Dial - centre, and then the calendar - lower part. Always crowded here!

Wenceslas Square, just around the corner was created in 1348, and is Prague's grand central square, well, more of a boulevard and named after the patron saint of Bohemia.  A statue of Good King Wenceslaus sits at the top looking down the hill on all the fine examples of architecture that line both sides.  Pip and I did not burst into song, but wondered where the "feast of Stephen was" as we were hungry!
At this time of year though, this is the site of one of two main Christmas markets, and yes, another Gluhwein and chestnut hit!

We looked for something different to do, so we attended a Classic Concert at Lobkowicz Palace, where we enjoyed a pianist and a violinist perform works from Dvorak, Bach, Mozart, Vivaldi and Beethoven.  It was good value at AUS$18. The impressive but intimate room with painted stucco ceilings, where it was performed, is just one room in the 17C Palace. Then we walked over Charles bridge, as everyone who ever visits Prague also does.  We were very lucky with the weather in Prague, enjoying sunny, fresh days. Here are some pics of Prague.

Scene of intimate concert

Charles Bridge

 

View of Charles Bridge

Next train journey took us back to Germany, to Nuremberg, around 5 hours.  Along the way were fields and fir forests sprinkled with snow and sparkling in the sun, it was just beautiful.
For dinner we chose a restaurant called Hausbraurei Altstadhof, a micro brewery with a great beer selection and good German fare, about a 15 minute walk through yet another Christmas Market.  Chestnuts on the way back to the hotel for Pip.

At the brewery

Nuremberg held great significance during the Nazi Germany era and was chosen for the huge Nazi Party Conventions - the Nuremberg Rallies - because of its central position in the country.  This is where the anti-Semitic laws were passed which revoked German citizenship for all Jews.  Pip was keen to visit the Documentation and Party Rally Grounds in the city's southern district.  Set on 24 acres, in a building that was never completed, an exhibition deals with the causes, contexts and consequences of the National Socialist Rule of terror.  We both felt it was an honest and transparent explanation of the events of the time. 

Current state of Rally Grounds

On a lighter note, we visited the Toy Museum or Spielzeugmuseum.  A huge display covering an entire spectrum of historical toys from antiquity to present day.  The model trains and Meccano sets were close to Pip's heart, taking him back to his childhood.
Steaming ahead, we visited the DB Railway museum which was opened in 1899.  This showcases about 40 historical railway vehicles.  I trotted behind as Pip lovingly looked over these huge beasts!

We also visited the Nuremberg Palace and the artist Albrecht Durer's home.

Albrecht Durer's home

Nuremberg Palace Grounds 

On the last day before we headed to our next destination, we wanted to see where the Nuremberg Trials were held.  In the aftermath of WW2 in 1945, the Allies sought to bring the aggressors to justice.  The first international war trials were held at the Palace of Justice as it was largely undamaged and had a prison attached.  The city was considered the birthplace of the Nazi Party, so it was chosen to mark the Party's symbolic demise.  We sat in Court 600, and saw where the 21 defendants stood.  A bit surreal.  The exhibition there contained many photos from the trial which made sitting in the court more realistic.

Palace of Justice.  Windows of Court 600 1st floor, behind flags

Our next train journey to Wurzburg was only an hour!  The purpose of our visit here was to reconnect with old friends and have a breather.  We have had many, many visits to this part of the world, with the first visit being 36 years ago, BC ( before children) so very familiar.  We were met at the station by Herbie - his name is actually Hubert, but being Aussies, we had to make it sound more Australian.  It is ten years since we have all been together, so we are all a bit fatter, greyer, balder and our waistlines have grown a tad.  Oh well.
We walked through Wurzburg's Christmas Market, but this time enjoyed a white Gluhwein, which I think I prefer now, and a bratwurst mit zenf just as the snowflakes started falling.  So magical.  And, yes, the boys had a bag of chestnuts!  We ate at some wonderful local eateries, enjoyed the wine from the area and reminisced about our early times together - some of which interested their daughter Lisa!

Annie's first snowflakes

Off we head again by train, this time to Belguim. 


Till the next blog
Love Annie
Xxxxx